Friday, July 8, 2016

Figure 1
14th Century Bridle, Div V Animal Accoutrements
Sgt James ap Llywelyn
Barony of the Cleftlands
AS XLIX

Introduction 

Ramon Lull, a prolific writer of the late 13th to early 14th century, said in his book on chivalry “Thus to the most noble man is given the most noble beast”[2]. He was talking about the horse, held in high esteem throughout the SCA period. He goes on further to describe the many parts of a Knight’s equipment and the significance of each part, saying of the reigns “and by the reins is signified to the Knight that he ought to be led overall where the order of chivalry will lead or send him.” There is no doubt that the horse and her equipment were precious to the 14th century Knight. As I explore the life of a 14th century nobleman I am drawn recently to the pursuit of horsemanship. While preparing my own horse for SCA Equestrian games I have decided to fit her with appropriate 14th century tack.

My entry is a 14th century bridle for my horse, (Fig. 1) based on the examples in the Hunt Book of Gaston Phoebus[1], for use in SCA Equestrian games. (Fig. 2)

Figure 2
       
                  


Materials and Methods 

The first obstacle to overcome when recreating any piece of tack from the 14th century is that the leather parts do not survive very well in the archeological record.[3] With a few exceptions, we are left with mostly bits of leather left attached at the belt or buckle end. There are some surviving spurs with belts intact, and recently an amazing find in Ireland of a complete breast strap with buckles and mounts. I have assumed that the work of leathercraft, techniques and stitches for example, was largely the same for tack as it was for belts, shoes, and other pieces. These pieces were more likely to end up in privy dumps, providing far more extant examples from which to glean leather stitching, finishing and dyeing techniques. I applied those techniques to my tack.

For leather, I chose vegetable tanned cowhide. While many earlier pieces of leather work in England were done in goat, sheep or pigskin by the 14th century organized cattle drives into London provided a ready supply of cowhide for leatherwork.[3] Vegetable tanned leather remains pliable and shapeable by soaking in water. I used this fact to shape the leather of my bridle for a close fit to the buckles and rings. I started with a side of 9 ounce vegetable tanned leather and used a strap cutter to cut it up. I burnished the edges of the straps with a rotary wheel burnisher. While this is a modern piece of equipment, it simply automates the hand process that has been used for centuries. The result is a burnished edge that helps waterproof the leather and give it a smooth finished appearance.

When I decided to dye my bridle I chose to use modern vegetable based leather dyes. I made this choice because my preliminary research into period dyes containing indigo suggested they were not colorfast and would fade quickly in sunlight. I wanted this bridle to remain deeply blue for a long time. I decided to use modern dye for the colorfast qualities. I waterproofed my leather with lederbalsam, a favorite among horse enthusiasts, which is made of lanolin oil and waxes. The same sort of oils and waxes were used in the 14th century to waterproof shoes, [4]so I think it is likely that tack may have been treated the same way.

Figure 3
The bit my bridle is built to hold is a commercially available snaffle bit with 3.5 inch rings in sweet iron. I chose this bit because it bears striking resemblance to bit BWB83(Fig. 3), found in London and dated to the 14th century. The measurements had to be exact. From the beginning of the partnership between man and horse the use of the bit and the placement thereof is an important task of the bridle. Xenophon tells us the bit should be “loose, so that the horse may not take it up in his bars but not so loose that he can take it up in his teeth.”[6] Dom Duarte, in his book on horsemanship, tells us that the bridle “should be well placed, neither too high or too low…” and warns us that “…great accidents can occur if the beast comes unbridled.”[7] I used a bridle that I knew fit my horse well and took copious measurements for my medieval bridle.

Stitching my bridle pieces to the rings at the temples I used a running stitch, also called a saddle stitch. The same stitch is found in numerous examples of shoes from the 14th century [4] as well as several pouches and belts. [8] Since I did not find any extant bridles or tack made of one piece of leather (the example recently found in Ireland is folded over and stitched with a baseball stitch to make a thin piece of leather suitable for a thicker job) I think it is reasonable to use this stitch, common in other examples of leatherwork with leather of similar thickness. I used waxed nylon thread throughout. While not period, it is strong, will not deteriorate, and I had a ready supply on hand. Since I intend to use this bridle over the life of my horse I think it is a good compromise, especially since the waxed nylon is visually similar to the waxed linen that would have been used in the 14th century.

Conclusion

I am very happy with my bridle, and my mare Jeanne d’Arc seems to like it too. I used techniques I learned in an earlier leather project and further refined my leatherworking skills. I am emboldened by my success and have decided to continue with reins, strap barding and a saddle to complete my 14th century horse tack project.

Fin





Bibliography
1. Thomas, Marcel. The Hunting Book of Gaston Phébus: Manuscrit Français 616, Paris, Bibliothèque Nationale. London: Harvey Miller, 1998. Print.
2. Llull, Ramon, and Brian Price. The Book of Knighthood and Chivalry. Union City, Calif.: Chivalry helf ;, 2004. Print.
3. Clark, John. The Medieval Horse and Its Equipment, C.1150 - C.1450. New ed. Woodbridge, Suffolk, UK: Boydell, 2004. Print.
4. Grew, Francis. Shoes and Pattens. London: H.M.S.O., 1988. Print.
5. Ward, William. The Secretes of the Reuerende Mayster Alexis of Piemount Conteinying Many Excelle[n]t Remedies Agaynst Dyuers Diseases, Woundes, and Other Accidents, with the Manner to Make Distillations, Parfumes, Confitures, Dyinges, Colours, Fusions, and Meltynges. ... Translated out of Frenche into Englishe, by Wyllyam Warde. Londini: [Printed by Henry Sutton], 1559. Print.
6. The Art of Horsemanship ... Translated, with Chapters on the Greek Riding-horse, and with Notes, by Morris H. Morgan. [With Plates.]. Pp. Viii. [11]-187. J.H. Allen & Co.: London, 1962. Print.
7. Preto, Antonio Franco. The Royal Book of Jousting, Horsemanship, and Knightly Combat: A Translation into English of King Dom Duarte's 1438 Treatise Livro Da Ensinança De Bem Cavalgar Toda Sela (The Art of Riding in Every Saddle). Highland Village, Tex.: Chivalry helf, 2005. Print.

8. Egan, Geoff, and Frances Pritchard. Dress Accessories, C. 1150-c. 1450. London: H.M.S.O., 1991. Print.